LOTTE PLUMB

This piece, titled “Deaf to the Word No”, utilises the unique properties of water soluble fabric to recreate the archetype of the jacket. It compares the contrasting ideas of protection and exposure through dress in order to draw attention to the issue of victim blaming that is prevalent in may sexual assault cases.

 

The concept of the garment was inspired by the words of designer Yojhi Yamamoto and singer songwriter Stella Donnelly who both made reference to the range of psychological and physiological reactions clothing can induce. This motivated me to create a jacket that challenged the preconceived expectations surrounding the archetype. I transformed it from something protective, structured and opaque to something expositive, unpredictable, and transparent. The physicality of the garment was inspired by Textile artist Anna Honeyman. She created delicate forms she was able to though the combination of cotton yarns and dissolvable interfacing. However as Honeyman’s practice predominately focused on objects I was curious to see if I could transfer her methods into a fashion context.

 

This jacket was created using a variety of traditional and experimental techniques. I started by utilising basic pattern making and toiling techniques to I had produced a prototype which I was happy with. I then cut each pattern piece out of the dissolvable interfacing and sewed lines of curved stitching down the length in multiple colours of yarn, making sure to cross the paths of the stitching to form joints that would support the piece once the base fabric had dissolved. I followed this with the construction of the shell, sleeves and collar of the jacket, which was a simplified process as I had omitted the lining and other intricate jacket details. In order to reinforce the seams, I use a zig zag stitch over the straight stitching. When I had completed the jacket I took it into the wet room and to start the dissolving process. Before I could dissolve it, I used old plastic bags to create a support structure that enabled the jacket could dry in the shape I had designed. I then placed the jacket on the mannequin and and used a spray bottle to slowly dissolve the base fabric. I used minimal amounts of water so that the dissolvable fabric left a residue of glue which gave the yarn stiffness and provided that garments with structure. I then allowed the garment to dry over the weekend. 

​

If I were to continue expanding on this project I explore methods of making it more sustainably viable. I would consider the use of dead-stock or scrap yarns instead of store bought reel- not only would this reduce waste but could potentially lead to more intersecting results. I would also research into alternative options to the dissolvable as is an unnecessary form of waste and pollution. In the future I will be sure to remember my interest in practices and processes of creating form and dimension within a garment