LOTTE PLUMB

This series of looks is titled “The Scrunch”. It tested, challenged and pushed the boundaries of the material of paper by placing it in a fashion context.

 

My process first began as a broad exploration of paper as a physical material- its defining characteristics, presence in todays systems of society and relevance to myself. I very quickly began noticing it everywhere and came to realise that it is a facilitator for much of human activity; communication, protection, entertainment, promotion, consumption, legalisation and celebration.

 

After this initial exploration I moved to think more theoretically about the material. I explored how paper developed throughout history and came to realise that one of the most significant changes was our attitude and appreciation for the material. Paper was once something that was highly valued- decorated with ornate lettering and intricate boarders- and would be passed down through generations as a primary form of communication. I then realised it had become something that more often than not had little to no value and was produced in vast quantities for the sole purpose of being disposed of. I wanted to change this way of thinking. I thought perhaps if I invested more time and energy into the paper I was creating the more perhaps I and others would place more value on it.

 

In conjunction with my exploration of existing paper I began experimenting with my own paper and quickly familiarised myself with the process of basic paper making as well as some of the more technical processes such as wash paper making. I adopted a scientific approach in order to test and trial different material types, making methods, functional additions and aesthetic manipulations. Throughout this exploration I became very aware of the materials I was consuming and the waste I was producing- I was conscious of what I was using and how I was using it.

 

The more time I spent working with paper there more I realised that although it has no solid foundation in the fashion industry in terms of wearable garments there are strong parallels between paper and fabric. I then began developing a closed loop system in which paper could circulate, which aimed to utilise existing- or better still, waste-materials, minimise the use of water and energy and eradicate waste in the afterlife of the garment I was creating. This system became a key component in supporting the ideologies of my project. It began with the collection of scrap pattern paper- a bi-product of garment prototyping, then flowed to the creation of paper, which recycled water at every stage of the process, then into the construction of the garments which were wither moulded or cut using very simple pattern pieces, then to the disposal of the garment which was either in the compost, recycling bin or mulched back down to create new garments.

 

 If I were to continue this project I would explore ways of reducing the water consumption of the paper making process even further. I would push the limits of the methods I had developed and perhaps investigate techniques of dry paper making. I would also consider how to make paper more accessible and viable in a real-world context and how it could be scaled into a commercial system. In the future I will return to this fascination in the field of speculative design practices and systems in order to inform my way of thinking and working.